Yes, it's real!


I've created this blog to help alleviate some of the confusion, questions and curiosity about my invention: The Spineless Wunder Boner.

YES, IT'S REAL! ~ I'm the inventor of the Spineless Wunder Boner fish bone removal tool. You may have seen my invention on YouTube, America's Best Inventions and mentioned more than once on the Tonight Show With Jay Leno. This is a real tool that works wunderfully to remove the entire skeleton of fish in seconds. If you have questions regarding the Spineless Wunder Boner tm, feel free to comment or you can send me a message by clicking on the "Contact Me" button in the right-hand column of this blog. ~Wunder Boner Inventor

All About Autos

A FEW THINGS TO LOOK FOR WHEN BUYING A USED CAR

Several indicators of a blown head gasket:
To check, with the car running remove the radiator cap (not when hot, not necessary) look at the coolant and if you get a lot of small bubbles constantly, that is a good indicator that the head gasket is blown. Also, by smelling the exhaust gas in the radiator, if you smell coolant coming from the exhaust tail pipe, that also indicates head gasket or coolant in the engine, apart from water in the oil which will cause the oil to be a light chocolate color.

If you hear a whirring noise from the rear when driving, it usually indicates a wheel bearing is about to fail.

A whining noise can mean the differential in a rear-wheel drive car needs maintenance.

A chirping noise means the disc brakes need to be replaced. You can usually tell by taking a flashlight and looking in at the pads to see how much outside pad is left.

A grinding noise either when braking or sometimes when driving means the pads are metal on metal and you will need to at least to machine the rotors as well to replace pads (maybe rotors).

If you get a clicking noise on a hard wheel lock either way, in front wheel drives that means the CV axles need replacing. A good idea is to look at the CV boots if split or grease is being thrown into wheel area, you should replace the CV axle as the cost of replacing the boots is only a few dollars cheaper than the complete CV.

Look into the power steering tank and see if it is being pumped when you turn the wheel.  If you get a whirring noise or the wheel is heavy these are good indicator's that the pump is on the way out.  You will also get a belt whistle on hard lock or at start up if the belt is loose.

In a manual car if you smell a brake like odour after shifting or the pedal seems very soft or it is very hard to get into gear, it usually indicates the clutch is on the way out. In automatic  transmissions if you get a severe jerk when it changes gear or does not go into a gear the transmission will most likely need replacing or overhaul.

Tire wear can be a good indicator of suspension trouble i.e.: if both outer edges of tire are worn evenly this usually indicates the tires are under inflated. If the center is worn more than outer it is over inflated. Check the side of the tire writing where it states maximum pressure, i.e. 44 psi.  This gives optimum tire wear.  Then check inside door for recommended air pressure.  The manufacturer of the vehicle always states a lower pressure for a better softer ride than the tire manufacturer. If the tire is worn on the inside only, it means an alignment is needed and the tires are toe in, outside wear means the wheels are set toe out and needs front end alignment.

Turn steering wheel and watch for a delay in steering wheel turn to tire turn. This can give indication of tie rod wear or steering problems. Another good idea is to follow the car on a test drive and look at the wheels to see if it tracks to one side, if so it has a serious alignment problem and may have a twisted frame. When driving take your hand off the steering wheel and apply the brakes and see if car brakes to one side (remember to take into consideration road camber, best done on flat surface) this indicates a brake grabbing or one failing to grab properly. Either way the brakes need work.

Check it out, anything after 1996 is OBD-2 compliant and a scanner can read basic trouble codes.

Another thing you should know about is the shock absorbers, an easy way to test them is to put your weight (get up on the bumper) in each corner of the car as hard as you can and then release it quickly if the car comes back up and stops they are good if it bounces they need replacing.

Another important thing is when the timing belt was replaced usually between 80-100,000 miles. If not replaced, this can be a $300-1200 job depending on the car.  Also if the engine is an interference engine (valve can be damaged by cylinder) it will means most likely an additional $4-600, as the heads need to be removed for the valve job.

A note about timing belts if the vehicle has a timing belt driven water pump:  It is a good idea to replace the water pump and thermostat at the same time as belt cam and crank seals (Cam and crank seals that are old will cause a leak at or near the timing belt and all of these only cost a few dollars more to repair when doing belt). It is a false economy to not replace as when you do you will be paying for the labor of replacing the timing belt again.

Body:  Check for a sound original body by looking for ripples in the lines of the body.  If you see ripples, place a magnate on the location.  If the magnate does not stick, there may be body filler present, indicating damage.

Any questions, comment below or send me a message. 
G’day,
Wunder Boner Inventor